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Bulgaria

At this page:
http://www.geocities.com/bg_seeds/sll-pruning.html

I have described the way I prune my plants. I'm looking for growers which would try it.

Want to know your opinion (at first sight)?

Also if you have questions... ask...

1/27/2008 4:28:30 PM

Western NY

what was your % heavy or light on any pumpkins using this technique?

1/27/2008 5:47:31 PM

Bulgaria

2005 (I did't used it) +9 (from 370.6 Noel) and +28 (from 1082 Curry) - Cold and wet year
2006 (used it) +2 (from 1032 Dieffenbaugher) +15.5 (from 1432 Carlson-Petersen) - 2006 was hot and dry and I have not water to irrigate >> small pumpkins
2007 (used it) +10 (1032x1432) +12.5 (370.6x1082) +10 (1082x370.6) - very hot and dry year (nearly 70 days with temps above 30 degrees C, highest - 39.3), but I irrigated as needed and >> PB

Based on that I can't tell that it influence the thickness. I never had pumpkin below the chart (I have grown and other pumpkins before 2005). I explain that because my soil is not balanced (exremely high on P and K, and low on Fe and probably on Ca).

1/27/2008 6:52:39 PM

Minnesota(dw447@fastmail.fm)

Interesting. Something to consider for those who like to experiment. By the way, your English is quite good.

1/28/2008 2:39:22 PM

Little-TON - Colorado

Nice,

Very interesting....much like Iris's are planted facing south....

1/28/2008 2:53:07 PM

Bulgaria

:-) I hope it will be something more than interesting... like... beneficial :-)
At lest it will not be harmful (using it, I achieved my PB during the hottest and driest year for the past 100 years for my area)

1/28/2008 6:30:59 PM

C N Y

we have been removing every other seconday/burying vines/
using different patterns for years and years and i believe that part of what makes that 'work' is that the plant(s)
'feel' that they are under attack and this triggers some
defense that causes them to try to grow more aggressively
in order that they can accomplish their fruit growth and, therefore, 'going to seed', more quickly. just like when you lift weights or do a lot of hard work, after a few days of soreness, the muscles you have added-to are now ready to take-on more work WITHOUT them having to hurt that day after THAT time. bad analogy? yup!
i didn't have MUCH of an idea that the actual ANGLE of the sun's rays could be all that important to the plant, as the leaves themselves FOLLOW the path of the sun thoughout the day (Bill Foss made a few videos of exactly this, a pumpkin growing so fast it exploded, lol, and it happened to be one of my seeds he used to do it, i THINK!)
anyway, the leaves of the whole
plant were following the sun as well as they could,
which surprised me very much. now, i have thought in the
past about removing just the leaves from every other secondary...but have never DONE it. most of us have always
removed the vines as well. so, the neatest twist here is just that---remove the leaves from every other secondary
but leave-on the vines themselves and bury them.
and yes, oh, yes, those of you that aim your plants using Hristo's links and diagram(s), which may include ME now, lol---good luck with it! later---eric g

2/2/2008 2:06:24 AM

Bulgaria

----"i believe that part of what makes that 'work' is that the plant(s)'feel' that they are under attack and this triggers some defense that causes them to try to grow more aggressively" - You should not only believe in that you must be sure, that this is true - it is scientifically proved.

----"i didn't have MUCH of an idea that the actual ANGLE of the sun's rays could be all that important to the plant" - it is VERY important because the leaves which are at right angle to the sun rays will receive (utilize) maximum sun energy, i. e. maximun efficiency. Example - why at the equator the temps are always high - because the sun is above you. Why the temps at the poles are low when they are at the same distance from the sun, as it is the equator - because of the angle of the sun rays at which they fall on the surface.

----"the leaves themselves FOLLOW the path of the sun thoughout the day" - yes, but this is true mainly for the younger leaves. Also the north faced leave will never twist at 180 degrees to become south/sun looking leaves.

----"remove the leaves from every other secondary but leave-on the vines themselves and bury them" - will tell you what will happen - these vines will die, unless you leave few leaves at the tip. But yes, in theory this way of pruning (with few leave at the tip) will be better than removing the whole vine.

:-) I hope you understood my "english" :-)

P. S. If you try it LMK your opinion about it

2/2/2008 7:58:43 AM